The tie didn’t just disappear from the necks of men over the past decade.

In most offices, a tie is no longer required, and if that trend had continued, it looked as if ties would only appear, often begrudgingly, in courtrooms, at weddings, and at events.

But this didn’t happen by accident.

The tie was singled out as a sign of conformity by a generation that sought to destroy what came before. They wanted to rebel, not fit in. They wanted to be seen as creative, unpretentious, and approachable. They didn’t want to wear their father’s suit.

The Silicon Valley tech rebels started the trend, with innovative heroes like Steve Jobs giving presentations in jeans and a black turtleneck. It became “the creative look,” and everyone wanted to be cool and rebellious.

Casual dress, what used to be a sign of rebellion against corporate culture or “the man,” has become the new conformity. The unspoken dictum being: “Dress casual like everyone else or be singled out as a try-hard.”

And like all things pushed too far, it spread beyond its original purpose.

The casualization of culture has reached its peak. It has permeated every level of culture, from the way we dress to the way we carry ourselves, even to the way we treat one another in public. What once felt like a welcome break from the more repressive culture of the mid-20th century now often feels careless, even indifferent.

But the pendulum can only swing so far. After two or three generations of men growing up seeing even their fathers wear a T-shirt or golf polo to work, there is almost nowhere left to go. You can only dress so casually to the point where pajamas and bathing suits at work become the norm.

If the next generation is to inevitably rebel, there is only one direction to go.

Surprisingly to many, young men everywhere are now dressing with elegance, embracing the timeless, and finding a renewed respect for the classic golden age of men’s wear.

Structure that complements a man’s physique. Colors that please the eye. And an attitude that belongs to another era of civility and class. Interestingly, when they dress this way, they behave differently.

And at the center of that shift sits the necktie.

The new flag of rebellion that young men are flying from their collars.

But with that desire comes a problem. Most young men want to dress with timeless class, but have little knowledge of how to do so.

So YouTube and Instagram have filled that gap, and the niche has become explosively popular.

Out of the top 30 men’s style YouTubers in 2025, the majority are focused on classic men’s style consisting of tailoring, workwear, and yes, ties.

And it’s not just visible on the streets and on social media. It is showing up in the numbers.

The global resale market is projected to exceed $350 billion by 2028, and it is being driven by younger buyers returning to classic menswear, including the very pieces they were told to abandon, like the tie.

On platforms like eBay, searches for vintage menswear have climbed in the double digits, with classic accessories like silk ties and heritage brands quietly gaining traction again. Some sites are seeing around a 45% increase year over year in tie searches.

Grailed, a marketplace built almost entirely around men aged 18 to 35, has seen growing demand for heritage tailoring and traditional pieces, a clear move away from purely casual, streetwear-driven style.

At the same time, formalwear has begun to recover. Suit and occasionwear sales have risen as much as 20 to 40 percent in the years following the pandemic, signaling a broader return to dressing with intention.

Suitsupply, perhaps one of the fastest-growing retailers in the men’s space right now, now operates over 100 stores worldwide, a signal that even at the height of casualization, the appetite for tailoring hasn’t gone away. In 2026, they can’t open stores fast enough.

At the same time, Ralph Lauren has been quietly climbing, passing $6.6 billion in revenue in 2023 with steady year-over-year growth and a strong rebound in Europe. Much of that growth is being driven by younger consumers, who are buying into the brand for the first time. Not bad for a company built on tailored jackets, oxford shirts, and ties.

All of this comes as no surprise when you look at social media. The “Old Money” trend (a modern synonym for American Ivy League style, traditional British and Italian style, and timeless class) has refused to die, and the tie is the last piece of that puzzle.

Perhaps because, by its nature, even in its most casual form, it’s unnecessary.

The tie serves no utility or function other than aesthetics, and maybe keeping your neck warm in the colder months. Yet it endures because of aesthetic science.

When you wear a tie, it creates a clean vertical line down the center of the body, lengthening the frame and sharpening the silhouette. It brings symmetry and a clear sense of balance across the chest.

It draws the eye upward, toward the face, exactly where it should be. Without it, the shirt opens, the structure softens, and the eye wanders. This visual interest gives your look some color and contrast, and if paired right, ties other aspects of your clothing together.

And this is where it gets interesting.

Because right now, you can buy into this world for almost nothing.

So how can you get in on the new rebellion without spending hundreds just to have one or even three high-quality ties?

How to Build a Tie Collection for Almost Nothing

The greatest tie brands of the last century, steeped in traditional craftsmanship, are now almost all available for under €50, or $60. What was €100 or €300 is now available sometimes even for €10, handmade in Italy.

E. Marinella, Drake’s, Charvet, Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Polo, Turnbull & Asser, Hermès, and more, handmade in England, France, and Italy, using some of the finest silks in the world, often from mills near Lake Como.

But where can you find these incredible deals? Not in stores, but on the secondhand market. In Europe, where the best deals exist, you’ll find sellers listing unworn or lightly used E. Marinella ties, often sold by sellers in Italy. Sometimes they are even still in the original box.

This brand is a personal favorite of mine. The Naples-based, 110-year-old tie maker has been worn by heads of state, European royalty, and generations of Italian businessmen. Their original store still sits in the same place over a century later, and everything they sell is handmade in the basement of the shop.

Originally starting as an English-styled brand, they slowly incorporated their Italian flair for color and a love of stitching each piece by hand, with just enough imperfection to reinforce that handmade feel.

So the first step you need to take is to create an account on a resale site like Vinted, filter for the brand, and start making offers on what you like. I’ve got most of my Marinella ties for €25 or less.

Here comes the part that most people overlook. Of course, pattern and color are important, but width and length are even more so. A tie can look great, but if the proportions are off, you’ll regret it. Too short and it’s basically unwearable.

Most ties will come in 160 mm or 170 mm. For me, standing at 6’5” (195 cm), I need a long tie. Anything under 160, and I pass.

Types of Ties, Fabrics, and Construction

This is where a little knowledge goes a long way. There are countless patterns made over the years, but there are a few classic types.

Fabrics

Start with silk. Real silk. Almost every great tie you’ll come across is made from it.

The most common is silk twill. It has a slight sheen, holds a knot well, and works in almost any setting. This is your foundation.

Then there’s grenadine. A more open weave, with texture and depth. Less shine, more character. If you only buy one tie to start, this is a strong place to go.

You’ll also come across shantung, which has a slightly irregular texture and feels more relaxed. And occasionally madder silk, with a softer, more matte finish, rooted in traditional English style.

Most of these fabrics come from the same place. Northern Italy, near Lake Como, is where some of the best silk mills in the world have been operating for generations.

Once you know what you’re looking at, you start to see the difference immediately.

Other fabrics you may find are wool, specifically cashmere, and linen. Great for seasonal use.

Patterns

Printed medallions, often called foulards, are one of the most classic tie patterns. Small, repeating motifs set on a clean ground, rooted in traditional English design and easy to wear in almost any setting.

Regimental stripes come out of British military and university traditions, where each pattern originally signified a specific unit or club. The structure is consistent: diagonal stripes, precise spacing, and strong color contrast.

Traditional British regimental ties run from the wearer’s left shoulder down to the right, following the line of a salute across the body. American Ivy League brands adopted the look in the 1920s and 1930s, but reversed the direction.

It’s a small detail, but once you see it, you can tell at a glance where a tie comes from.

Then, of course, there are simpler options. Plain ties and a range of other repeating patterns, but most of what you’ll see falls into these foundations.

Construction

Under the normal triangular tie category, you have variables like how many folds are in your tie, i.e., how much fabric is being used. Common ties are 3-fold (the most common) and 7-fold (the most sartorial and refined). This means that the tie is folded over itself multiple times, like origami, to give it a certain weight and drape.

Then we come to the tipping style and lining. Self-tipped is a sign of high quality, as the expensive fabric, silk, is used to cover the seams, as opposed to cheaper ties using polyester fabric.

Although not all high-end ties have tips or lining, a 7-fold, untipped tie with no interlining, where the extra fold of silk gives it its structure, is top of the line. You will also see hand-rolled tips for an extremely elegant look.

The Most Underrated: Knit Ties

If wearing a tie makes you nervous, if you want to ease into this without everyone pointing at you and asking “Got a big meeting?” or “Are you going to work?” then you need to give knit ties a try.

These are my favorite category of tie. Almost always made from silk, and always more casual and laid-back.
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Here is my most recent attempt at trying to casualize my knit ties with suede and trousers.
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Most are squared off and on the thinner side. To the uninitiated, they look like a long sock, but many are made with the classic triangular tip as well. They most often come plain, and, in my opinion, the first colors to go for are black and navy.

One massive sign of quality is what many call “the crunch.” When you bring the knit tie to your ear and squeeze it between your fingers, if it makes a crunching sound, you’ve got a good one. Probably pure silk.

When to Wear Your New Ties

I have to admit, this is where I struggled at first. You have all these nice ties, but it feels like everyone around you insists on staying in the casual matrix we live in. If you stand out too much, you can come off as uncalibrated.

Forget all that. The truth is most people don’t really care. Unless you’re wearing a very corporate-looking suit and a very formal tie to your kids’ T-ball game, you’re probably fine.

But since we are easing into this, let’s discuss how to wear a tie in a way that softens it, so the transition feels natural.

Instead of putting on a two-piece suit, try a navy or tweed blazer with jeans. You can even opt for a suede jacket instead.

I suggest keeping one more formal garment in the mix. If you wear the suede jacket, go with proper trousers in worsted wool, hopsack, or flannel. Otherwise, the tie feels like an afterthought.

The master of dressing down a tie is, without a doubt, Ralph Lauren. Walking through his stores in cities like New York or Paris, the mannequins are always dressed elegantly. Often, there is no suit at all. Just pleated trousers, knitwear, and a Polo tie. Anyone can pull this off without looking out of place.

The Rebellion and What It Means

It really is nice to see a return to men dressing in a way that flatters their shape. The structure of tailoring outlines their shoulders and waist, and the tie serves as the grounding mechanism for the entire look.

The real question is, how long will this last? It is my opinion that it is not a trend, but a cultural shift that will gradually move menswear back to what it should be. Not changing with the seasons, but staying constant.

Men will buy less but of higher quality. They will have more variety to choose from, from casual streetwear to a formal two-piece suit. And once you discover this variety, you can’t go back, because everything else seems boring.

So, long live the rebellion, and don’t be afraid to wear that tie.

On Boulevard Saint-Germain, in the famous Left Bank neighborhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris, sits perhaps one of the greatest menswear stores in the world.

A celebration of Americana and European elegance combined to create an atmosphere that can only be described as the most civilized international shopping experience in Paris.

This is Ralph Lauren Paris. A bridge between two continents, and a vision of how an international life should be lived.

Built inside of a 17th-century hôtel particulier, a private mansion originally built for an aristocrat of the French ancien régime, the front of the store does not seek to stand out. It respects the Haussmann style it now inhabits and improves upon it with timeless design.

Stepping under the massive arch to your left, you have the entrance to the main shopping floors going up several levels. In front of you, a courtyard dining area simply called Ralph’s. On your right, you have Ralph’s Coffee, which has become a smash hit in New York, Milan, and Paris.

Sometimes, it has a line out the door. In the back, past the courtyard, you have a bar adorned with paintings and mahogany-lined walls, welcoming you with the sound of cocktails being made and quiet conversation.

Today, there was almost no one except me and the plentiful employees who speak excellent English and French.

As I walked into the first floor of shopping, greeted by the friendly doorman, I walked past the sophisticated and casual clothing of the women’s section, making my way up the stairs.

In the Paris location, the first two floors (rez-de-chaussée and premier étage, or ground and first floor) are for women.

You have to choose your way up, the classic caged ascenseur (elevator/lift) made of black iron and dark wood.

The brass accents and gold hand lettering are as authentic as it gets for what is probably a reproduction of the original elevator, perhaps even more beautiful than the original.

The second option is the marble stairs that are lined with paintings that look like illustrious ancestors and men and women of the past, horses, and more, depicting Belle Époque Paris.

When you get to the third (French second), you find the menswear department. Four entire floors of it. Black tie, impeccable tailoring, casual wear, knitwear, and everything else imaginable.

As I walked through the first section, I noticed the floors, like in the Rhinelander store in New York, were separated by Ralph Lauren’s different lines.

The first you will see, somewhat collected together but also scattered throughout the store, is Purple Label. The crème de la crème. The top of the line. Most of it, made in Italy from the finest fabric mills of England and northern Italy.

This is what the flagship RL stores in major cities are dedicated to. You won’t find it anywhere else. Not in your neighborhood mall. Not at the outlet store.

Walking through the beautifully staged rooms, I couldn’t help but realize that there is no one else who can make clothes look this good on a mannequin than in the best RL stores. The pants drape flawlessly. The jacket always fits. And they never look boring.

There is always a pop of color, an interesting use of textures, or an odd way to style something. Like tucking in a suede overshirt into side tab-adjusted trousers. This may sound odd, but when you see it here, you can’t imagine wearing it any other way.

The white linen trousers and sport coats, the silk ties and dinner jackets with cummerbunds channel the best decades of men’s wear from the 1930s to the modern day.

The effect of the ’30s and mid-century feel is accentuated by the use of décor like models of Blower Bentleys, Le Mans Ferraris (of which Ralph has all of them), and old leather suitcases.

I even saw an old wooden steering wheel that looks like it came off an MG, but with the initials RL in the middle.

This is a place for the man who wants to live in an entirely different world from what is given to us today. A man who chooses the timeless. The elegance of another era. Where the men were men, and the women were glad of it.

Ralph Lauren literally invented the lifestyle brand. You feel it with every step. This store is a world, not a shop. You simply don’t want to leave once you step in. But alas, I needed to explore the other floors. So let’s keep moving.

Past that, on the next floor, you find Polo. The most iconic and recognizable line from suiting, polo shirts, tennis sweaters, and more Ivy League style attire.

To beachwear that you could easily imagine buying, grabbing a quick flight down to the Mediterranean, and fitting into the best of the beach crowd at Cannes or Saint-Tropez.

This is where the clothes become slightly more affordable, more casual, and easier to walk out of the store with. It’s no surprise that you will find the largest number of people on this floor. But today it was mostly empty.

I walked through a section with large windows facing the Ralph’s courtyard, and felt the warmth of the sun shining in.

An employee asked me if I needed anything as he opened a window and placed a few neckties over a jacket, as if this were someone’s stylish bedroom.

I had to snap a picture of the scene. I loved it so much, I made it my new screensaver on my phone.

Moving to the next floor was more Polo and I stopped to check out some beautiful silk rep ties. Most of them had no back tag, were self-tipped, and thin to the touch with a great hand.

All a sign of superior quality, these are the high-end Polo variety that is also made in Italy or Switzerland, close in price to the cheaper quality Polo you find in malls, but far better.

Making my way up to the very top floor, I am met with the most American part of the store, the western wear RRL line (pronounced Double RL).

Leaving behind the world of European elegance, we have the feeling of being out west on Ralph’s ranch.

While I did see several interesting pieces here, I do have to give the trophy to the RRL dedicated store in SoHo in New York, which somehow makes suiting western and cool at the same time, something no one else has ever been able to pull off, in my opinion.

Sensing that my wallet was in danger if I stayed any longer, I made my way back down to the ground floor and out onto the street. One thing is for certain about a store like this. You don’t feel pressured to buy anything.

It’s almost like a museum to dressing well that anyone brave enough to enter can enjoy without the pretentiousness that taints the experience of so much high-end shopping in Paris.

Here you can dive into Ralph’s world and slowly fall in love. And today, with Spring on its way, the sun shining down on the zinc rooftops of Paris, it was easy.

Written by Ben H. Jackson
Editor-in-Chief of Jackson & Co

One of the most important things in life is our environment. The house we live in, the city we call home, and of course, the clothes on our back. These things don’t just affect our comfort. They shape our psychology and the way we see the world.

When it came to clothing, men’s fashion was largely quite simple for over a hundred years. Men wore things that were practical and sharp—garments that accentuated the lines of their physique. The cut of a suit flattered a man’s height, broadened the shoulders, sharpened the neck. It made him look put together without needing to reinvent himself every day. This was objective beauty, because it looked at what man is and said: let’s complement him.

Then came streetwear, and with it, the casualization of culture. While the loudest trends shifted toward comfort, most men’s style actually remained timeles—quietly consistent in its appeal.

But starting in the late ’90s, runway fashion took a different turn. Designers began throwing out everything that once made a man look good. A movement began, not just of experimentation, but of rejection. Rejection of structure, of elegance, of objective beauty.

The subjectivists, just like in modern art, came in and declared that anything could be fashion. That ugliness was not just valid, but an ideal—and an expensive one at that. From there, a campaign of mockery and purposeful distortion took hold.

What we’re seeing now isn’t innovation, it’s inversion. Fashion’s highest voices no longer aim to elevate the man. They aim to provoke him, confuse him, even mock him. And while the press applauds and the algorithms reward it, something deeper has broken. The connection between clothing and the man it’s meant to serve is gone.

But in the last few years, there’s been a rebellion. In the same way Ralph Lauren once recognized that fashion and style are two completely different things, men are turning back to timelessness. You see it in the countless YouTube channels dedicated to classic men’s style—voices that champion elegance, fit, and quality over trends.

Kirby Allison, He Spoke Style, The Gentleman’s Gazette, Real Men Real Style, Sartorial Talks, The Elegant Oxford, Parisian Gentleman, The Chap’s Guide, Gent Z, and Luke Hodge—each of these creators, in their own way, has helped reintroduce a generation to the power of tailoring, proper footwear, personal grooming, and quiet confidence. And that’s not a full list. New creators start every day. Instagram’s Anton Masko and Clément Sartorial Matters are two of the fastest-growing classic menswear accounts today.

And it hasn’t just been suits. The rebellion extends to timeless casual wear too— knitted polos, trousers that aren't squeezing the legs to death and have real drape, jackets that frame the body, and Goodyear-welted leather shoes that last longer than a season. This isn’t about looking old-fashioned. It’s about dressing with intention.

And no, this isn’t some nostalgia-fueled political longing for a “better time.” It’s just a simple observation: most men today look at runway fashion and feel like it’s a joke being played on them. No wonder the average guy walking down the street thinks he’s being mocked, because he is.

They chase validation from a small group of pretentious critics so disconnected from what men actually wear that they truly believe platform heels, tent-sized clothing, and feather boas look good on a man.

But the truth is, the number of people who actually buy this stuff is tiny. Most men aren’t in on the joke. They’re just tired of it. Why do you think the “old money” and “quiet luxury” trends took hold of the internet in the last three years?

They aren’t just aesthetics, they’re reactions. A rejection of the loud, disposable, trend-driven culture men have been sold for too long. There have been exceptions to this rule. Tom Ford, ever since his time at Gucci, pursued a modern take on classic elegance—and succeeded. Yes, he occasionally put men in lace, but the overall feel of his designs was sleek, masculine, and unapologetically wearable. He understood the power of tailoring, of silhouette, of sensual restraint.

It’s no wonder we’re seeing brands like Suitsupply become one of the fastest-growing names in menswear. With over 150 stores worldwide and double-digit revenue growth year over year, they didn’t scale by selling hoodies and sneakers. They did it by selling suits, to a generation that supposedly didn’t wear them anymore.

That line, “nobody wears suits anymore”, has been repeated for the last two decades like gospel. And yet, Suitsupply can’t open stores fast enough.

Why? Because the narrative was wrong. Men didn’t stop wanting to dress well—they just stopped being offered clothing that made them feel like themselves. Once they were, they came back. Fast.

Suitsupply didn’t tap into nostalgia. They tapped into hunger, the desire to feel put together again, to look like you mean what you say.

And it worked.

by Ben H. Jackson

The Sneaker is Dead, Long Live Loafers and Oxfords.

This is a sentence I wish were true. Unfortunately, we find ourselves in a world where men are wearing sneakers to work, to the gym, on the weekend, and, disappointingly so, with a suit. The sight of suits paired with big, chunky white sneakers alone is enough to make me cringe. But nothing tops the security guard I saw a few months ago in Hell’s Kitchen: black suit, white shirt, silver silk tie, and black Crocs with American flag socks.

The 1960s saw a rebellion of youth refusing to “grow up” and put on a pair of leather dress shoes. It started with Chuck Taylors, rock and roll, and by the time Jordans were released, the trend had become the norm. That initial rebellion against the formal may have had its heart in the right place. The 1950s were a time of conformity, with a very strict social dress code. But ironically, today’s result has led to almost the same outcome.

Today's standard acceptable look for almost every occasion is plain white sneakers, no-show or long white socks, and chinos or jeans. That is all there really is for the modern man, unless you choose to break away from the conformity of your time.

If you're the type who doesn’t follow the status quo, there’s only one direction to go: back in time. Back to hand craftsmanship. Back to a shoe that is not meant to be replaced every two years. Back to a silhouette that complements your clothing and elevates even the simplest clothing.

Assessing Your Sneakers

On the surface, the sneaker seems more comfortable, but most people's only reference is a cheap pair of dress shoes their mom made them get for their cousin's wedding. They are made of vinyl or a plastic fake leather, they have a hard rubber sole that provides no support or comfort, and in comparison, I have to agree—sneakers are better.

Here is what you're missing. Sneakers are cheap to make. They are designed to fit you comfortably right out of the box, and they don't blister your feet just for walking across the room. They also only last about 2 to 3 years with heavy wear, and white sneakers really only look good for the first 6 months.

On the other hand, a good pair of dress shoes that are made from all high-quality leather will last 20 years with care and a resole every once in a while. These shoes, while an absolute nightmare to break in, will fit like a glove after 2 months. They will improve with age and mold to your foot in a way no synthetic material ever will. And yes, they will be more comfortable than your sneakers.

Now you might be asking how a shoe can be resoled, and that is exactly what Blake-stitched and Goodyear-welted shoes are designed for. Still confused? Let's dive into the nerdy world of quality men's leather shoes.

Goodyear Welted and Blake Stitched

No, Goodyear does not mean your shoes are made of tires. It refers to the manner of construction, i.e., the way the sole is attached to the leather upper. Goodyear welts are where the upper has a rim of leather sewn around the outer perimeter of the bottom. This is used to sew on the leather sole, which at first is too big and must be cut down to size. This effect is actually so ingrained into shoe design that cheap shoes with glued-on soles will fake this stitching pattern on the top edge of their soles.

Why is this done? So that when your sole is worn out, you don't have to replace the whole shoe. They cut the stitching and use the welt as a surface to sew on a new one. This method also waterproofs the inside of the shoe, as the stitching is often waxed to create a seal so those thin, fine wool socks stay dry.

In contrast, Blake stitching still has the same end goal in mind, but uses another method. Instead of having an exterior welt, the stitching is done on the inside of the shoe underneath the insole. It can still be cut off and easily replaced with a new sole. While Blake stitching is often a cheaper alternative and less tedious to do, it does lack the solid feeling and waterproofing of a Goodyear welt.

A rule of thumb is to get your lined loafers made with a Goodyear welt and your unlined summer loafers done with the more flexible and lighter Blake-stitched method.

Cost Per Wear

Now, why does all this matter? The answer is a practical one: cost per wear. If we look at a good pair of higher-end sneakers, you're going to pay about $200 or €170 as of 2025. They will last you about 2 to 3 years and—let’s assume you have 3 pairs in your rotation—that’s 0.50¢ to 0.80¢ per wear. So at 2 years of life, that's close to a dollar every wear.

Now let's try a good pair of Goodyear-welted shoes. A pair from Meermin (a great entry-level brand) will set you back about the same price. But these shoes can last up to 15 or more years with a resole about every 4 years. With the cost of a resole being about $50—again considering a 3-pair rotation—you're looking at less than 0.10¢ per wear. Even for the man who cares little about aesthetics, these practical numbers should have you considering a pair.

Even if you wanted to spend $600 to $700 on a single pair of quality dress shoes, you're still saving money in the long run.

What to Look For And Where to Get It

Now that I have thoroughly convinced you to buy a few pairs of good shoes, you might be wondering what you should get. Here comes the fun part.

Assuming you're starting from not having a single pair of good shoes, let’s find something that can work with the more casual clothes that you're currently wearing. Although soon you will find that if you get into the hobby, you start to want to wear more tailored and more elevated clothing.

Your next pair, without a doubt, should be a pair of loafers. Probably in a dark brown suede. The texture and color work with every pair of jeans, chinos, suit trousers (with the exception of black), and summer linen trousers in your closet. They age beautifully and add depth of texture. They can be worn with or without socks, unless you have exceptionally sweaty feet. And they work for every single season (with the exception of very cold winters) and can be dressed up or down.

Then you have two choices. You can go for a regular leather loafer in a dark brown or black (dark brown will be more versatile), and you can now pick between penny, tassel, and bit loafers. This last is not personally to my liking, but is quite popular. In my opinion, your first pair should be a penny loafer in suede, and the second a tassel or penny in a regular high-quality leather.

The third should be a pair of Oxfords. The famous movie The Kingsman made the flawed statement “Oxfords not brogues.” While an Oxford can be both. The shoe is defined not by its decoration or lack thereof, but by lacing construction. If the leather upper’s lacing is open and can be pulled up and flapped back, then it is in fact a derby (a more casual style of dress shoe). An Oxford is where the bottom lacing flaps are stitched to the top of the shoe so that they cannot be flapped back as easily.

So the statement “Oxfords not Brogues” should have been “Oxfords not Derbys.” Broguing refers to the decoration of the cap toe on the shoe. Very traditional English shoemaking will often create a pattern out of holes in the toe to add decoration and are considered less formal and traditionally worn in the countryside.

After you have these basic shoes, you can go in any direction you want—formal patent leather tuxedo pumps, Blake-stitched unlined loafers, derby boots, Chelsea boots. The options are almost endless.

Brands of High Craftsmanship and Style

Now, for the part we’ve been waiting for: the brands. I’ll say that there are too many incredible shoemakers to put all of them in one article, but we have to start somewhere. So, I will start with the best for the money, the most widely available, the best styles, and of course, my favorites. All of which have top-notch craftsmanship. As a rule of thumb, the best shoes in the world are made in three places: England, Italy, and Mallorca, Spain.

My favorite, Carmina, is made in Mallorca and offers incredible styles, high-end leathers, and a wide variety of lasts—for the best value in shoemaking, at around $400. Next would be the English brands that go up in price a bit. Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, and John Lobb are a few that are the top-notch of shoemaking. All hovering around $700 for the average pair. Then we can go up to custom-made bespoke shoes which go into the thousands, but as this is a starter article into this world, we won’t get into that now.

If you’d just like to get started and don’t want to spend that much, Meermin is an excellent choice. They have most of their Goodyear-welted options for around $200 or under.

The Luxurious Properties of Cordovan Leather

The best exotic leather in men's footwear that you will actually get a benefit from is Cordovan. It’s taken from the rear muscle of a horse that has passed away from old age and is perhaps the finest shoe leather in the world. Its properties include microscopic pores that make for an incredibly fine grain. It produces a natural oil that often protects the leather. This also makes it take a polish extremely well. Its color of dark maroon is perhaps what makes it so sought after. Its color is often faked around the world. Its rich hue hits a practical, refined luxury without burlesque.

Fit, The Silhouette, and Last of A Good Shoe

Not many people think about the shape of their foot and what type of shoe best fits their foot when they are buying sneakers. They are forgiving and designed for most feet, but no foot in particular. Back in the day, many people had their shoes custom-made to the shape of their foot, and that shape was called their “last.” This refers to the shape of the piece of wood that the leather is stretched over in the construction process of the shoe.

There are as many lasts as there are types of feet, and cheap shoemakers always only offer one per style of shoe. But when you discover the world of quality men's footwear, you find out that there is a last out there that fits your foot very well. Brands like Crockett & Jones, Carmina, John Lobb, and Edward Green have hundreds of lasts to choose from. These are also many of the brands that offer the most attractive silhouettes.

It’s a hard thing to put your finger on what makes a shoe look good, but a common reference is the lines of a beautiful boat or sports car. They have slight curves, they are never bulky, and they follow form and function. You will see this when you look at the brands I have mentioned before. Then look at the bulky Bass loafers and the ridiculousness of chunky sneakers, and you understand why they are more beautiful.

Now that we have talked about last and look, you need to know how these shoes should fit your feet—and that is the hardest part of the entire process. Everyone's feet and way they walk is different. But a good rule of thumb for loafers—which are the hardest to get right—is that they should not slip on your ankle. In the store, a lined pair of loafers will always do this, but if it’s a lot of slippage you should probably size down.

If you have a very shallow instep, a great way to fix this if you like the fit but still want it to be a little more snug is to buy leather tongue pads. You can push your foot back in the shoe a bit and hold it in the right place.

Breaking in a Pair

This is the second hardest thing, and many people give up during the long, grueling, blister-ridden process of breaking in handmade leather shoes. There is no way around the fact that it hurts like hell. For about 8 wears, you're going to be slightly in pain. But I can promise you once you go through this, your shoes will fit better on your feet than any pair of sneakers you have ever owned. The natural leather molds to your foot like an old baseball glove.

Some tips I can offer: wear them as much as you can without walking in the rain or putting yourself in too much pain. If they feel a little snug, wear thick socks for about the first five wears.

The Importance of a Rotation

Leather shoes wear down just like any other kind of shoe. Yes, they can be repaired easily, and that is their benefit, but having four or more pairs will ensure that you aren't wearing the same ones every day.

Care and Finding a Good Cobbler

Okay, here comes one of the fun parts to some and a downside to others—these shoes require a lot more care than a pair of sneakers. You have to polish them, moisturize them, take them to the cobbler every 4 years or so, and put shoe trees in them after you take them off.

Sneakers you can just take off and throw anywhere. But once you get into this, it becomes part of your ritual, and to some, polishing your shoes can be a meditative process—like shaving, or pressing your shirts. You should be polishing your shoes about every 3 or 4 wears and in between taking a horsehair brush to them. With suede, a simple wire brush every few wears will do nicely.

Explaining how to polish your shoes in this article would be cumbersome, so I recommend you go check out a tutorial on YouTube by Kirby Allison or The Gentleman's Gazette.

Finding a good cobbler is tough. There are so many these days that just cater to people who want their white sneakers cleaned and re-soling cheap plastic or rubber dress shoes. DO NOT GIVE YOUR SHOES TO THEM! They will ruin them. Instead, go to someone recommended by the shoe store. If you're in New York, Jim’s Shoe Repair is good—also known as Cobbler Concierge. A good question to ask a potential cobbler is if they have JR Rendenbach soles.

Tip: If you wear out the toes of your shoes quicker than the rest like me, have metal toe plates put on when you buy a new pair. This will prevent unnecessary resoling and make them last so much longer. It should cost you about $20 to $30 for both shoes, but it’s worth it. Make sure you get the screw-in ones and not the cheap nail-ins.

Accessories

Here is a list of must-haves when you get your first pairs:

• A horsehair brush

• A shoe polish wax and cream (either from the shoemaker or a good brand like Saphir)

• Cedar or oak shoe trees (try to buy the ones from your shoemakers that match the last of your shoe)

Nice to have:

• A wood box with a stand for the shoe when you polish them, where you can put your polish inside

• A nice wooden shoe rack in the bottom of your closet

One Last Note on Socks

Personally, I loathe socks. I would love to go sockless every day. Alas, I cannot.

I haven't found my favorite brand yet, but here are some tips on what to look for: 100% natural fibers. Never get polyester blends. Your feet will sweat and itch. Wool, cotton, and silk blends are the best. Wool might sound like something you wear skiing, but thin, open-weave wool socks are so breathable and soft on your feet that they can make cotton feel hot in comparison.

The height of socks is a very important matter. If they are too high, they go up over your knee. These just make the hairs on your leg itch and your trouser leg feel weird. In comparison, the average sock is too low. It doesn't stay up and only goes halfway up your calf. The best is over-calf socks. They stay up and don't feel too long. At first, if you're not used to them, they feel odd—but you’ll discover they are superior with time.

As for the color, navy and dark gray are going to go with 70% of things. Don’t buy black and always complement your trouser color. Don’t wear light socks with dark trousers. Don’t buy black socks—you will never find something that looks good with them other than very formal attire.

Break Out of Conformity and Embrace Elegance

Now you are ready to become the kind of man who doesn't conform to the prison of the casual. For far too long, the casual wardrobe has been forced on us. The plain white sneaker is no longer a cage for your feet. For those of us who want to grow up, we are immediately called a grandpa. I find this to be a compliment sometimes. I say them, "My grandpa has more style than you anyway".

By Ben Jackson

Fifty to seventy years ago was a time that most of us have been told was the Golden Age of Air Travel. Pan America, TWA, the BOAC, and Air France ruled the skies. It was a glamorous time when sleek jets were stylish, roomy, and new. Well-to-do people sipped Taittinger or Dom Pérignon, dined on three-course meals, all while cruising at 30,000 feet. The stewardesses were as beautiful as runway models, and people dressed with the seriousness and class of their time. Travel was an occasion to dress well, just like going to work in a Manhattan office building or a Park Ave dinner party.

All of this is true, and it was probably very glamorous, but anyone who has flown business or first class in the last few years would tell you that not all of that has changed. The fact is, air travel is just as, if not even more, chic than it’s ever been. Emirates First Class Private Suites will give you a bed, Zero-Gravity Seats inspired by NASA design, exceptional gourmet On-demand à la carte dining, a Shower Spa, and even a massage if you can afford it at an average $20,000 round trip. Of course, this is an extreme, but you get the point. Even Emirates’ economy class is luxe in comparison to 50s planes. During the golden age of air travel, the entire plane was first class, and tickets were out of reach to the average person.

Now, flying has never been more affordable. Budget airlines like Norse offer cheap flights that span oceans and continents. You can travel internationally and bring along the entire family for less than your grandparents would've paid to travel from New York to Miami, and in relatively good comfort, minus a little legroom.

So why don’t we refer to our current time as a golden age for travel? Why do people feel nostalgic for that earlier time? The answer is simple: aesthetics, attitude, and manners. Yes, economy seats may be slightly smaller, but what’s really changed is how people behave and how they dress. Dressing up for meaningful moments—of which travel is one—is a form of self-respect and an appreciation for beauty.

Most people today dress for travel the same way they dress for bed. Sweatpants, a hoodie, and a SpongeBob neck pillow. They claim it’s for “comfort.” But truly, it's called defeat. Comfort doesn't have to come at the expense of elegance. In fact, style can be practical, inspiring, and even improve your travel experience.

Dressing well is not for others. In fact, some people may quietly resent you for it. That’s often a reflection of their own self-esteem. Don’t let it affect you. Dress well for yourself.

The mind often reflects its inner state outwardly. If you’re stressed, your room is probably messy. The same goes for clothing. Travel brings chaos, tight schedules, delays, last-minute packing, and anxiety as you gingerly place your bag on the scale at the check counter, hoping the light touch will somehow make your bag 2 Kilos lighter. Your clothes can be armor against that chaos, just like preparation is an antidote to stress.

How To Travel With Style

If you're someone who longs for this elegant era of style while traveling, remember that you still have control over yourself. You live intentionally. You don’t accept the status quo. Whether you're traveling for pleasure, work, or adventure, you want to dress well, but not in a three-piece suit.

If sweatpants, a hoodie, and sneakers are the modern uniform. You will rebel with timelessness.

Trousers

Wear well-cut trousers that pair with a blazer or sport coat. They shouldn't be too tight or too loose. Follow a classic English or Italian silhouette, flat-front or pleated. Choose tasteful colors: navy, dark brown, charcoal, or deep green. For tropical destinations, off-white or cream linen trousers are ideal. A mid-rise or high-rise cut avoids pinching when seated. Jeans are acceptable too, when paired with a nice jacket. Brands like Suit Supply, Kit Blake, Drakes, Anglo Italian, or better yet, a pair made by your tailor.

Side adjusters are far superior to belts. Not only do they eliminate the need to remove your belt at the dreaded security check, but they also look more refined.

Shoes

The most practical, stylish travel shoes are loafers. Easy on, easy off, and versatile. Whether dark suede or polished leather, black or brown, they pair with jeans or trousers. Even with TSA PreCheck, most of the world still requires shoe removal. Loafers make this painless. A pair of loafers from a Spanish maker like Carmina or Meermin, or an English brand like Church’s or Crockett & Jones are exceptional choices.

Shirts & Knitwear

Stick with classics: a soft button-down in oxford cloth or twill, or lightweight knitwear. Layering is your best friend. A soft shirt with a sweater on top is both stylish and practical. Countless brands make quality items in the shirting category, but here is a semi-comprehensive list below:

When it comes to shirts, the sartorial world offers a wide spectrum of quality and craftsmanship. At the accessible end, brands like Charles Tyrwhitt and Brooks Brothers provide classic styles perfect for everyday wear, while Spier & Mackay and SuitSupply stand out for their construction and modern cuts. For those who want custom options without a bespoke price, Proper Cloth offers impressive online customization and solid entry-level fabrics.

Moving up the ladder, Turnbull & Asser sets the British standard for heritage and elegance, Drake’s blends Neapolitan flair with casual sophistication, and Finamore 1925 and 100 Hands deliver exquisite hand-finishing and luxurious details. At the very top, Charvet in Paris remains the undisputed king of bespoke shirts, with Budd Shirtmakers in London offering timeless British refinement and Luca Avitabile in Naples tailoring shirts with a Bond-like elegance. For those seeking rarefied excellence, Camps de Luca rounds out the list with French craftsmanship of the highest order.

Coat

Whether you wear jeans or trousers, a well-cut blazer is ideal. If you're skipping the suit, opt for travel wool or hopsack jackets that resist wrinkling. Suede jackets or waxed Barbour coats are great for a more casual yet timeless look. In warm climates, go for linen safari or chore jackets. Even in the tropics, a jacket is useful for chilly flights and over-air-conditioned airports.

Blazers also offer utility: their inside pockets are perfect for your wallet and passport, and many are buttoned for extra security against wandering pick pocket hands.

When it comes to blazers and coats, the sartorial world breaks down into three tiers. At the entry level, brands like SuitSupply offer modern cuts, half-canvassed construction, and a lot of value for the price. Spier & Mackay delivers impressive craftsmanship with subtle tailoring details that punch above their weight. And Pini Parma, with its soft shoulders and refined Italian flair, is quickly becoming a favorite among young professionals who want elegance without breaking the bank.

In the higher-end ready-to-wear space, Canali remains a benchmark for sleek Italian tailoring, offering timeless silhouettes in luxurious fabrics. Drake’s brings British charm with relaxed, soft-shouldered tailoring that feels at home in both London and Florence. And for those who want something with bold refinement, Ralph Lauren Purple Label blends American luxury with Savile Row structure, elevating classic menswear to cinematic heights.

At the very top, bespoke tailoring is an art form. Anderson & Sheppard of Savile Row is known for its iconic soft drape cut and quiet elegance. In Paris, Cifonelli is revered for its sculpted shoulders and hand-finished detail—favored by clients who expect nothing less than perfection. And in Naples, Rubinacci leads the way with expressive Neapolitan tailoring that captures sprezzatura in its purest form.

The Carry-On Bag

Leave the black plastic roller bag behind. Invest in a fine leather duffel or aluminum suitcase that ages beautifully. Every trip will show off the scars from journeys around the world and tell stories with every scratch. Unlike the black plastic shell that you've been shoving your things into for the past few years and reluctantly squeezing into an overhead compartment that always seems 10% too small.

The Mentality and Habits of an Elegant Jetsetter

Traveling well takes planning, action, and mindset. The elegant traveler has two key traits:

1. Experience: He's walked the terminals at Charles de Gaulle, JFK, and countless others. He moves with quiet confidence. His passport is out before it's asked for.

2. Time: He arrives early. Not to wait, but to settle in. He finds a quiet spot, orders something cold and precise: a gin and tonic with lime, a bourbon over ice, or a bone-dry Martini that bites at the first sip. His watch ticks softly beneath his cuff. No scrolling. No rushing. Just stillness, and the quiet satisfaction of knowing he’s in his element.

Maybe he stops by the Centurion Lounge. Maybe he sits down for a proper meal. The real luxury isn’t champagne or first class—it’s time. Time to browse, to move unhurried, to take in the rhythm of the terminal without being owned by it. A small indulgence anyone can afford, if they choose to claim it.

Too many people hate airports because they associate them with stress. But airports can be romantic. They are cathedrals of departure, where steel tubes full of strangers rocket toward far-off cities. A drink in hand, a good book, the hum of possibility. If you choose to enjoy it, the airport isn't the wait. It’s the beginning.

Packing should be no exception. Begin packing three hours before departure, plus thirty minutes for each travel day. It's not just about being prepared. It’s about entering the trip with clarity, not chaos.

As for flying itself, try business or first class at least once. Many people spend their whole lives in economy, never knowing what it feels like to be greeted with a glass of Champagne or to stretch out fully at 35,000 feet. This is a mistake. Of course, not everyone can afford it often, but too many write it off entirely. They say it's not worth it, though they’ve never tried. Worse, some carry an invisible belief that they aren’t meant for it. That it's for someone else. Beliefs like that don’t just keep you out of first class. They keep you from the best things in life.

Even a modest upgrade—say, on Norse or a regional airline—can change how you see the journey. It’s not about luxury. It’s about feeling like you belong there.

Entertainment

Skip the screens. Bring a paperback—something that ties into your destination. A novel that sets the tone. Don’t pack a book with twenty pages left. Bring one that can carry you from takeoff to landing.

Class and Plane Etiquette

Sadly, this section is necessary. Don’t dominate conversations with strangers. A word or two is fine. A full monologue is not.

Never play videos or music without headphones. That includes TikToks and Reels. No matter how good your taste is, someone will disagree.

Be kind to the flight attendants. Order with confidence. Know what you want before they get to you. It’s not the time for “ummm.”

Now, you’re ready to enjoy travel unlike the rest.

Once you learn to travel like it’s the Golden Age again, flying stops being a chore. It becomes part of the pleasure. A ritual. A runway. You move differently. You carry yourself like you’ve already arrived.

And maybe the world isn’t as elegant as it once was. But you are.

That’s the secret. The Golden Age isn’t gone.
It just needed someone to bring it back.

Drink in hand. Eyes on the horizon. Ready to see the world.

In 2024, we are living in both the best and worst times for style. On the one hand, we have unprecedented access to every design method and style conceived throughout history. We can explore the secrets of master tailors from the past and merge their expertise with modern technological innovations — from advanced machinery to performance textiles.

On the other hand, we face an increasingly casual culture that rejects formality at almost every turn. It seems that nearly anything goes except for the suit and tie — though this is changing rapidly.

Social media is ablaze with new takes on blazers, suits, and formal wear. Celebrities like Jude Law, Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Jeremy Allen White, Austin Butler, and Jacob Elordi have showcased tailored styles at every opportunity. All these examples are just from the summer of 2024.

While icons like Pitt and Clooney never shy away from classic styles, the social commentary on these pieces stands out. In a world of Balenciaga’s ridiculous look, classic style returns as it should. While they may push what is traditional, this return is undeniable.

Ralph Lauren, a brand not known for getting press, is the talk of fashion week following their elegantly effortless Spring 2024 show in the Hamptons.

With the return of the classic, let us ask: What will be the tailoring style that defines our decade? It will have to be more roomy — gone are the tight suits of the last ten years. Big shoulder pads and stiffness won’t be accepted in a more casual setting.

This brings us to the Neapolitan style. Defined by its often unconstructed look, with softer shoulders, generous lapels, and handwork, it simply looks more natural than the English, Parisian, or American styles.

But what is it really?

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Naples became a clothing manufacturing hub. At the time, they didn’t quite have their own style. They mostly used the patterns and methods developed by the English and French. With the affordable labor in the South of Italy, there was an opportunity to truly create a high-quality garment for a fraction of the price.

This all came to a head after Italy’s devastation during WWII. The master tailors in the South found themselves in a tough spot. Industrialization was improving the lives of everyone in the wake of the war, but mass poverty was rampant in the South. There was no economy to speak of after Mussolini’s destruction.

The master tailors of Naples, while the heart of hand-made Italian craft, found themselves without the local customers they had relied on. Yet there were a few men who, in the coming decades, would come to create the Italian style we know today.

In the 1930s, a young man named Vincenzo Attolini came onto the tailoring scene in Naples. He challenged what a suit had to have and deconstructed the English suit. He took the fully lined and canvased stiff English jacket and removed almost all its structure.

In the heat of Naples, this had to be done. He then went on to soften the shoulders by removing a lot of the padding in what is now called the “spalla camicia” shoulder, which has little to no padding at all, almost like a shirt. Vincenzo Attolini’s work was mostly worn by the locals at first but quickly caught on when his work with the House of Rubinacci attracted customers from around the world.

Other things that set the Neapolitan style apart are often seen in suits in recent years.

Patch pockets often found on these jackets make the garment simpler and more casual. Pick stitching (large sections of thread on the lapels and other parts of a jacket that add to the handwork look of the garment).

Puckering of the fabric at seams — often seen at the top of the shoulder — is called “Grinze” and gives the jacket more detail and depth. This is also sometimes referred to as “Mappina,” which means “little rag” in Italian. Trouser pleats are almost always found to give added room and character to the front. Side adjusters, as opposed to belt loops, allow you to go without a belt and add an air of sophistication and differentiation.

The buttons of the jacket opening are often more rounded, armholes are cut high for a range of movement. You will often see more generous, wider lapels that look better and are more timeless than the skinny lapels of the last 15 years.

Overall, beyond the technical differences, the Italian style has an intangible quality that only a hand can impart. Antonio Panico, a prominent tailor in Milan, is featured in the film O’Mast, which explores Neapolitan tailoring, and in Hugo Jacomet’s quintessential book The Italian Gentleman.

Panico explains that the Italian mindset is not mere imitation but transformation and evolution. He notes that even when Italians replicate something, they will inevitably make modifications, adding their personal touch and unique flair. This drive for innovation and individual expression is deeply ingrained in Italian craftsmanship and is a crucial reason why Italian tailoring remains so dynamic and distinctive.

So why will this style dominate the coming years? Simply put, it represents the most relaxed way to wear a suit. Its aesthetic stands in contrast to the athleisure and industrial trends of modern clothing. The handcrafted nature of Italian tailoring offers a level of luxury that industrial clothing brands, such as Suit Supply, have built their reputations on.

The growing popularity of Suitsupply’s casual suit styles is evidence of the prominence of suits that are more relaxed. It also highlights the resurgence of Neapolitan suits, which embody a sophisticated yet casual elegance that is increasingly favored in contemporary fashion.

So, when venturing into modern elegance, consider the Neapolitan style for the next addition to your closet. Even if you can’t fly to Naples for a custom suit, countless brands are now making strides with quality craftsmanship in this style at a more accessible price range.

Of course, aspects of this Italian hand-made look can be somewhat replicated, but credit must go to the master tailors of Napoli for pioneering the look of the 21st-century suit. The good news is you now have options.

From the style’s inventors, Rubinacci, who has shops in Italy, the UK, and the US, to Pini Palma, based in Naples, which provides an affordable product with Italian handwork. Then there is, of course, the easily accessible Suit Supply, with stores all over the world. Whatever stage you are at, there is an option for you.

When choosing a fabric for your next made-to-measure suit, you might be tempted to go straight for the classics: navy or gray wool, brown linen, or tan cotton for summer.

But for those of us obsessed with menswear, fitting in with the crowd was never the goal. You want to look classic, exude sophistication, and still stand out as an individual.

For us, looking like just another guy in a suit is the real struggle, but there is an opportunity to break convention by choosing a unique fabric that has over one hundred years of history yet hasn’t caught on as a mass-market staple.

Military History

Solaro is a tan, green, or brown fabric with an iridescent quality that no other textile has. Created in 1907 by Italian-born doctor Louis Sambon, it was designed to reflect UV rays from beating down on the backs of soldiers in tropical climates. Later, it was found to be ineffective, but its incredible visual qualities still make it an interesting choice for tailoring.

The actual patent for this fabric is currently held by the English fabric company Smith Woollens, now known as Harrisons. Although many other mills are currently making an identical product under other names for a much lower price, they cannot legally be called Solaro. Between you and me, who cares what it’s called? You just want it, right?

How To Wear A Solaro Suit

Since this fabric is most often woven in a herringbone, the subtle texture doesn’t clash with patterns. You can almost treat it like a normal herringbone in tan. But, when the light hits it as you step outside, the iridescent orange, red, or green thread will magically reflect light, creating a perfect opportunity to complement that undertone with your accessories and other accoutrements.

For instance, if you have a tan Solaro with a red brick under thread, a dark blue or navy tie will complement that iridescent color beautifully.

Shirt choice is easy. Like most neutral colors, you can pair it with a blue or white shirt, stripes or no stripes. One of the most interesting things to play with is the formality of that shirt. With a tie, you could even pull off a light denim, oxford cloth, or a more formal shirt. This summer fabric is one of the easiest to dress down or up.

Brown loafers are the best pair with any color Solaro fabric. Suede is especially interesting as you are playing with textures. The subtle reflective quality of the Solaro and the supple suede will add depth and texture to your look, further separating you from the flat navy with shiny black shoes crowd. Dark green suede would be very adventurous but could still work if done properly.

Places You See Solaro Pulled Off With Classical Elegance

For those of us obsessed with everything sartorial, you will know Pitti Uomo is full of excellent summer suits. Solaro being a summer fabric, it makes sense that Pitti would own its unique properties and show it off. You can see many a sartorialist rocking Solaro on the Italian cobblestones, channeling their inner Gianni Agnelli, who wore Solaro impeccably.

So if you’re thinking of a new suit, get ready for next year and consider this fabric as a sartorialist’s pleasure. Consider Solaro. You won’t regret it.

The 1960s saw a rebellion from tradition that has continued to this day, where the suit is seen as something men are forced to wear for work or formal events. We went from having a relationship with our tailor, who handmade custom clothes for us, to buying a T-shirt and jeans made to fit every single person on earth.

This rebellious streak, pioneered by the youth of the culture, has matured to the point where many grown men never even saw their father dress in a two-piece suit by choice. But casualization can only go so far. If the next generation is to inevitably rebel, they will have to go in one of two directions: more trendy casualization or a resurgence of the timeless.

It is plain to see that something is currently happening in culture. It’s glaringly evident on social media and the streets of major cities: an undeniable resurgence of traditional men’s style, whether it was the “old money” trend that took us by storm in 2022 and 2023 or full-blown tailoring worn not because the office dress code dictates it but because young men want it.

Young People Are Bringing Back the Suit

A fashion study report by one of the big three consulting firms found that in 2023, sales of men's tailored clothing, including suits, blazers, and dress trousers, increased by 15% compared to the previous year, with younger demographics (ages 18-34) driving much of that demand.

To see what young men are currently interested in, turn to YouTube, where they spend much of their free time. The prominence of creators like The Gentleman's Gazette, Sartorial Talks, Kirby Allison, Gent Z, and Real Men Real Style shows this growing thirst for the classic.

Taking the Leap into Timeless Elegance

Now, to you, someone who wants to step into the world of timeless elegance. Maybe you want to stand out and rebel against the 45-year-olds dressed in sneakers and jeans, or this style simply speaks to you. The question remains, “How do you start without everyone inevitably saying, ‘Nice suit, are you going to work?’”

If you're inspired, you might be tempted to say, “Screw what people think. I’m gonna go buy five suits and wear them every day.” But let’s take things easy at first. The truth is people around you might think negative things about your new style. This may or may not matter to you, but for most, it is a consideration. “Does he think he is better than me now?” or “Oh, he wants to look like he has money.” These statements are inevitable, but there are ways to frame your new style as your personal brand rather than a cry for attention. The key is baby steps.

Guy Ritchie Says We Need To Take Back The Suit

Director Guy Ritchie is a major defender of the suit today. He believes we need to take back the suit from the corporate image, especially the creatives. “When you put on a good suit, you feel like you can take on the world. It gives you an edge.” You can see the result of his obsession with the suit in his films and shows.

With a suit, you can go from average to slightly elevated to a true Italian gentleman in a perfect-fitting Neapolitan jacket while putting the corporate monkey suit to shame. No other category of men’s clothes has that ability.

Wool, Linen, and NEVER Polyester

When people hear wool, they often think of winter sweaters, but today’s tropical wools are among the most breathable, light fabrics available, second only to linen. Cheap suits made of “high-performance” athletic fabrics advertise themselves as breathable. Don’t be fooled—synthetic polyester is the least breathable fabric you can get.

Classic menswear is not known for its innovation, but the wool industry has made significant strides in the last decade. The new blends and “Super 100, 200, and even up to 400 weights” are so advanced that what once cost thousands of dollars is now the entry-level at Suit Supply. Modern “travel wools” wrinkle less than most other clothes you own. You could ball it up, sit on it, and throw it back on, ready for dinner.

Linen, unfortunately, does not share this quality; in fact, it wrinkles if you look at it the wrong way. But the depth and character that this fabric adds to your silhouette is unmatched. Being made from a dry plant rather than animal hair, linen is very dry and porous. This means it absorbs sweat and releases it into the air quickly. You will feel like you have nothing on as the breeze passes through your shirt. Pro tip: embrace the wrinkles and keep an iron nearby when they get to be too much.

From Jeans to Trousers

Yes, jeans are comfortable. If you wear them long enough, they feel like a second skin, but they can only take you so far. Chinos can be an option, but flat-front, often boring cotton can feel quite bland. The new world I want to introduce you to is trousers—specifically suit trousers in wool or linen.

The depth of texture, variety of patterns, and different fabric weights offer more diversity than any other type of men’s pants. You might remember the sweaty prison of tight-fitting polyester suit pants from your cousin's wedding and cringe. Take comfort in knowing that well-cut trousers in natural fabrics will be more comfortable than your favorite pair of jeans. They will breathe better, look better, and be more versatile. You can dress them up or down for winter or summer.

Now we come to my favorite question: To pleat or not to pleat? Many men under 65 see pleats and think, “Grandpa.” But just like history and fashion, it repeats itself, and pleats are back. The depth and character they add to your silhouette scream cool Italian gentleman, looking impeccable without trying. These little details matter.

Burn the Skinny Jeans

With skinny jeans on the way out and baggy pants back in, we classical-style aficionados know that the best fit lies somewhere in between. With trousers, the front and back crease should almost always go straight down or into a clean taper. This is what we call “drape” in the sartorial world. If you see bunching around the back of your knee or feel your knees getting squeezed when you bend down, they are too tight.

Give yourself some breathing room. Many of us who have worn tight pants for the last 15 years might think your new pants look baggy when they fit right. I beg you, give it a chance. After a few wears, you’ll see your silhouette looks much cleaner with a straight or slightly tapered fit.

As for color, a great way to start is navy, off-white, charcoal gray, mid-gray, green, and brown. Then you can get into more patterns, but most go best with a matching jacket.

High-Waisted vs. Low-Rise

I’m going to be controversial here. You should never wear low-rise trousers. Luckily, they are going out of style. Even fast fashion stores like Zara and H&M are starting to carry high-waisted. If you are unfamiliar with the rise of a trouser, it is the distance from the crotch seam between your legs to the top of the waistband.

High-waisted is classic, it is more comfortable, and it looks better. Some people think high-waisted and picture Steve Urkel, but I think of Connery playing Bond. Anything way above your belly button is overdoing it. A beautifully cut high or mid-rise trouser should come at or just below your navel. Of course, all bodies are different, but this is a good rule of thumb. Shorter guys will be happy to know that a longer leg line makes you look taller. Try a pair, and you’ll see.

Leave the Belt at Home

We’ve all worn belts since we were kids. Without one, those empty belt loops just hang there. Let me introduce you to the side tab.

A nice suit does not have belt loops. Whether it’s MTM (made to measure) or bespoke, it will either have side tabs or suspender buttons inside.

Belts lack the elegance of side tabs or side adjusters, and once you get your first pair, you’ll see how much more practical and comfortable they are. If you gain a pound or three, you can adjust without needing luck on your belt's hole placement. Needless to say, going beltless is much easier to pair with shoes.

Button-Down Shirts That Don’t Make You Look Like a Banker

Keeping natural fabrics like linen, cotton, and denim in mind, let’s explore how to rock a button-down without looking like every other finance bro.

The truth about why you might not like the button-down is simple: your shirt doesn’t fit. Fit is everything. Those tight clubbing shirts in your closet need to go. You want something not too baggy and not too tight. It should be long enough to tuck in without coming untucked, and for God’s sake, measure your neck.

The collar is the most important part. The reason you feel like your tie is strangling you isn’t the tie—it’s your collar. Getting the right collar size will make wearing a tie a pleasure, not a punishment.

The small inch-and-a-half collar has to go. Get a generous collar that hugs your neck with no gap at the back. This “collar gap” will ruin your silhouette. There are many types of collars, but a good, more casual one to start with is the button-down collar. You’ll find these mostly on OCBDs (Oxford cloth button-downs), which are a great shirt to start with. If you want to casualize a suit, try a good denim or chambray dress shirt without pockets.

Please do not wear an undershirt with your new nice dress shirts. Without a tie, it’ll look silly unbuttoned, and don’t do up the first few buttons. Let the shirt open slightly without showing too much chest like an Italian mob boss.

The First Blazer or Sport Coat

Now you’re ready to start wearing some jackets. The fit of a blazer is too comprehensive to cover fully in this article, but I will say that it should cover your butt. I see too many people walking down 5th Ave in a cheaply made $2000 Hugo Boss suit that looks like it was painted on. Their butt is cut in half by the line of their jacket, and it flares up. It looks as if it were made for a toddler.

The most important thing to know is the formality of a jacket. A black or dark charcoal jacket with formal flap pockets won’t work well with jeans or odd trousers. Patch pockets on a less structured jacket, like a Neapolitan jacket, will give you an air of elegance without looking too formal.

The lapel is a big deal. It will make or break the jacket. Don’t go for one of those 2-inch 1960s-looking lapels. Go for a generous lapel, whether it’s peak or notch. Pick-stitching on the edge of the lapel adds character and handwork that is pleasing to the eye.

As for the color and fabric, go with a navy wool for your first, then move on to browns, grays, and greens. These colors work with many of the trousers you now have and are the best colors in menswear. Please, despite what the master Tom Ford says, don’t buy a black blazer or suit for your first. It’s the least versatile suit you will own, only acceptable at a nightclub, wedding, or funeral.

As far as single-breasted vs double-breasted, start with the single-breasted first and then branch out. The fit is a little harder to get right on a double-breasted, but when you do it will look and feel impeccable.

Long and Short Sleeve Knit Polos

An exceptional way to keep the blazer and trousers in the realm of casual is to utilize knitwear instead of always wearing a button-down. Most will only work for the cooler months, but you can find very light and breathable knitwear for summer. A wool merino knit polo with long sleeves will feel amazing on the skin under your new blazer.

The First Suits

Here comes the exciting part. People have seen you upping your style game and are used to your new look. Now is the time to get a good suit. The first instinct is to rush to a department store and grab one off the rack. Stop and think. Are you in this for the novelty, or are you looking to build a timeless wardrobe that will last a lifetime?

Your most affordable and acceptable option for your first nice suit is an off-the-rack suit made from fine Italian or English fabrics. It will have some handwork and fit you moderately well with minor alterations. The average two-piece suit costs $500 to $800 at Suit Supply.

Next, you’re on to MTM and bespoke. MTM, or “made to measure,” is a suit based on a core pattern that fits most people but can be adjusted to your body shape. This is a great and affordable option, and you’ll have thousands of fabrics to choose from. You can expect to pay $500 to $1,500 for a basic two-piece MTM suit at most quality shops.

The last and best option is for the true sartorialist: full bespoke. This is where a tailor measures you in places you never even expected mattered, then builds a pattern entirely from scratch based on your body. This is done in the US and worldwide, but the best are found in Italy, specifically Naples, and the famous Savile Row in London. The price of a great suit by one of these master tailors can vary, but they mostly start at around $1,500 in Naples and more in London.

Italiano or English

The difference between these two styles could warrant entire volumes, but to give you a few aspects to consider, the Italian look is more casual, unstructured, and less formal. Yes, an Italian suit can look highly formal, but the average suit in the Neapolitan style will be less conservative. Most modern suits are cut this way but lack the character and handwork of an Italian-made suit. The shoulders will slope more with less padding and look softer. The fabric will often feel lighter and softer to the touch. We call this the “hand” of the fabric.

The English look, by contrast, is quite conservative, very structured, and almost always formal. I recommend the Italian cut for the beginner in the world of suiting.

Loafers are Your Best Friend

When starting out, many ex-sneakerheads will go for their Jordans with a suit. Please, for the love of God, don’t do this! If there is anything I hate most in the world, it’s a suit with a pair of white sneakers. It’s not classic, and you end up looking like a kid.

Get yourself a suede and regular leather pair of penny loafers with proper leather soles. Start with dark brown tones. They will be the most versatile shoes in your closet. You can dress them up or down to suit your needs. Spring is for good Goodyear-welted or Blake-stitched shoes if you can. You’ll be able to have them re-soled throughout the years, and they will last you forever if you take care of them.

If you want to try something interesting that separates you from the crowd, go for tassel loafers. Some still see these as grandpa shoes, but you won’t look that way if you wear them right.

In the summer months, ditch the socks. If you’re concerned about smell, go for no-shows. An unlined loafer feels like heaven on your feet without socks.

The Struggle and Reward of The Tie

If I’m being honest, this is the hardest part, but once you become comfortable, it’s the most rewarding. Putting on a tie will immediately get you noticed. It’s not subtle. It makes a statement that you are serious, but it doesn’t have to be.

The right tie, worn with a denim shirt, can actually look more on the casual side. I would advise against wearing a tie at the office right away. If you’re in a more casual office setting, it will make you stand out too much. But for all other events—dinners, social outings, drinks with friends, and travel—it's a great place to start.

If you’re dead set on wearing it in the office, do it under some knitwear, tied loosely like you don’t care. It will give you a nonchalant look you can get away with. But, please don’t buy a skinny tie. They were trendy about ten years ago and the 1960s but it’s not a good look. Generous lapels and generous ties are best.

How to Wear a Suit with the Stylish Art of Sprezzatura

The biggest struggle with wearing a suit is not looking stuffy. You want to look good but not like a try-hard, either. This is where the art of Sprezzatura comes into play. Essentially, it’s trying to look like you just rolled out of bed, ran a comb through your hair, and threw on a suit. It’s effortless elegance without the fussiness.

The king of this look was the Italian industrialist and CEO of Fiat, Gianni Agnelli. He wore his shirt cuff undone, and the back of his tie almost always stayed longer than the front—usually a big style no-no, but it’s become quite trendy recently. He wore cheaper shirts than he could afford. He looked like he didn’t care, but always looked badass anyway. A particular quirk of his style was wearing his watch over the cuff of his shirt. It looks cool on him, but I tried it, and it looked ridiculous. But there is something in his style to take note of.

Maybe don’t always button your cuff, or maybe your jacket doesn’t need to be buttoned every time you stand up. It’s up to you to experiment and see what you like.

The Journey Has Only Begun

Now you’ve gotten a glimpse into the world of timeless elegance and quality craftsmanship. Once you step into this world, you will be hooked. No longer will you dress the same way you did when you were ten years old. No longer will clothes be just a means to cover your body, but an opportunity to bring beauty and joy to your life. Now, I leave you with this quote from one of the most classic men to ever live:

“I believe in style, not fashion. Fashion is just a trend that you follow, but style is something you own and define yourself by.” - Ralph Lauren

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