By Ben H. Jackson
When choosing a fabric for your next made-to-measure suit, you might be tempted to go straight for the classics: navy or gray wool, brown linen, or tan cotton for summer.
But for those of us obsessed with menswear, fitting in with the crowd was never the goal. You want to look classic, exude sophistication, and still stand out as an individual.
For us, looking like just another guy in a suit is the real struggle, but there is an opportunity to break convention by choosing a unique fabric that has over one hundred years of history yet hasn’t caught on as a mass-market staple.
Military History
Solaro is a tan, green, or brown fabric with an iridescent quality that no other textile has. Created in 1907 by Italian-born doctor Louis Sambon, it was designed to reflect UV rays from beating down on the backs of soldiers in tropical climates. Later, it was found to be ineffective, but its incredible visual qualities still make it an interesting choice for tailoring.
The actual patent for this fabric is currently held by the English fabric company Smith Woollens, now known as Harrisons. Although many other mills are currently making an identical product under other names for a much lower price, they cannot legally be called Solaro. Between you and me, who cares what it’s called? You just want it, right?
How To Wear A Solaro Suit
Since this fabric is most often woven in a herringbone, the subtle texture doesn’t clash with patterns. You can almost treat it like a normal herringbone in tan. But, when the light hits it as you step outside, the iridescent orange, red, or green thread will magically reflect light, creating a perfect opportunity to complement that undertone with your accessories and other accoutrements.
For instance, if you have a tan Solaro with a red brick under thread, a dark blue or navy tie will complement that iridescent color beautifully.
Shirt choice is easy. Like most neutral colors, you can pair it with a blue or white shirt, stripes or no stripes. One of the most interesting things to play with is the formality of that shirt. With a tie, you could even pull off a light denim, oxford cloth, or a more formal shirt. This summer fabric is one of the easiest to dress down or up.
Brown loafers are the best pair with any color Solaro fabric. Suede is especially interesting as you are playing with textures. The subtle reflective quality of the Solaro and the supple suede will add depth and texture to your look, further separating you from the flat navy with shiny black shoes crowd. Dark green suede would be very adventurous but could still work if done properly.
Places You See Solaro Pulled Off With Classical Elegance
For those of us obsessed with everything sartorial, you will know Pitti Uomo is full of excellent summer suits. Solaro being a summer fabric, it makes sense that Pitti would own its unique properties and show it off. You can see many a sartorialist rocking Solaro on the Italian cobblestones, channeling their inner Gianni Agnelli, who wore Solaro impeccably.
So if you’re thinking of a new suit, get ready for next year and consider this fabric as a sartorialist’s pleasure. Consider Solaro. You won’t regret it.
